REVIEW #15

The Modern

Housed in a simple, sun-drenched room and overlooking the sculpture garden at the Museum of Modern Art, the Modern is an exquisite French-American restaurant that has continued to improve over the course of its life. It has been overseen since its inception in 2004 by Alsatian-born chef Gabriel Kreuther, who won the James Beard Foundation Award for “Best Chef: New York City” in 2009. It is now operating at the top of its game.

The Bauhaus-inspired dining room is often liberally ornamented with large-scale flower arrangements and evokes a sense of intense tranquility. The extremely formal service and understated tableware all contribute to creating a respite from the hurly-burly of the museum’s frenetic interior (or, for that matter, exterior).

Although the food is decidedly French-American, Kreuther’s dishes reflect a number of global influences. We confess to not knowing his secret, but many of his dishes taste fresher than at many other top restaurants. He often employs organic food and deftly deploys various herbs and spices. The fine and complementary list is international but with a weight on Alsatian wines. The more casual, adjacent Bar Room, which Kreuther also oversees, serves very fine earthier fare.

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INFORMATION

Midtown West
9 W. 53rd St.
New York (nr. Fifth Ave.)
212-333-1220
Mon-Thu, noon-2pm, 5:30pm-10:30pm; Fri, noon-2pm, 5:30pm-11pm; Sat, 5:30pm-11pm
    Gabriel Kreuther, Chef
    Marc Aumont, Pastry Chef
    Ehren Ashkenazi, Beverage Director
    Danny Meyer, Restaurateur

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