REVIEW #76

Telepan

Bill Telepan’s eponymous restaurant, which pays homage to the Greenmarket with occasional nods to his native Hungary, is a welcome oasis among the somewhat barren culinary landscape of the Upper West Side. The décor, awash in hues of green in a not terribly subtle allusion, is somewhat underwhelming. But the food, although understated, is of very fine quality and reveals an intense dedication to the purity and quality of the ingredients. Telepan promotes the concepts of buying locally, eating and drinking in season, and using the freshest available ingredients. This is particularly observable in the restaurant's deft and liberal use of Greenmarket vegetables.

Telepan incorporates a few unusual and interesting features that deserve special mention. We very much like the added versatility created by their concept of subdividing the menu into three courses, including a “mid course”, as diners who perhaps want a heftier appetizer or a less-filling entrée now have a pleasing alternative. The adroitly curated wine list contains several pages of reasonably priced sommelier recommendations along with insightful descriptions. And they also have a very interesting YouTube channel (TelepanTV) with videos on topics such as food and wine pairings and how certain signature dishes are made. Telepan is not a flamboyant restaurant, but a reliable and often outstanding one, and it has earned a spot among NYC’s finest.

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INFORMATION

Upper West Side
72 W. 69th St.
New York (nr. Columbus Ave.)
(212) 580-4300
Mon, 5pm-10pm; Tues, 5pm-10:30pm; Wed-Thurs, 11:30am-2:30pm, 5pm-10:30pm; Fri, 11:30am-2:30pm, 5pm-11:30pm; Sat, 11am-2:30pm, 5pm-11:30pm; Sun, 11am-3pm, 5pm-10pm
    Bill Telepan, Chef
    Larissa Raphael, Pastry Chef
    Sam Clifton, Chef

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