REVIEW #18

Gordon Ramsay at The London

Gordon Ramsay is one of the most talented and high profile chefs around (only Joel Robuchon and Alain Ducasse hold more Michelin stars).  He has an outsized personality and a notoriously raunchy mouth, both of which he has monetized to great success. However, despite his prominence, he did not open a restaurant in New York until 2006, when his eponymous restaurant at the London NYC Hotel together with an adjacent, more casual space called Maze opened. The restaurant got off to a bumpy start, plagued by mixed reviews and cash flow problems, and was eventually sold. Ramsay is gone now, but his name and his imprint remain.

Although the restaurant may not have lived up to the sky-high expectations generated by the success of the chef’s Michelin 3-star London counterpart, the food is polished, refined and served extremely formally in a smart, mirrored dining room. It deserves to be taken more seriously than it has been. Although the food is relatively conventional haute cuisine, the restaurant is anything but playing it safe. At a time when the trend in fine dining is toward casualness and simplicity, Ramsay unapologetically hearkens back to an earlier era, using traditional French techniques and liberally deploying luxuries like caviar, foie gras, and black truffles. Although the food is truly excellent, it sometimes lacks the magic and evenness of places like Per Se, Daniel, Jean Georges and Le Bernardin.

The wine list is truly superb and the Prestige Menu pairings are some of the most interesting and complementary pairings we have had. It says something about a place when one can order Chateau d’Yquem by the glass. We recommend a fresh visit, unencumbered by any preconceived expectations. We think that you will find the restaurant is easily one of the finest in New York.

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INFORMATION

Midtown West
151 W. 54th St.
New York (nr. Seventh Ave.)
212-468-8888
Tue-Sat, 5:30pm-10pm
    Markus Glocker, Chef

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