REVIEW #21

Blue Hill

No restaurant in New York is more associated with the “farm-to-table” philosophy of cuisine than Dan Barber’s Blue Hill, where the ingredients are often sourced from his upstate biodynamic farm that very morning. A communal atmosphere pervades the simple and intimate, but also refined, room below street level as diners congregate to appreciate the freshness of the produce and the talent of the kitchen.

Although the presentations are beautiful, Barber does not overly ornament the food, choosing instead to present nature’s flavors as cleanly and directly as possible. An asparagus and watercress salad with farm egg, meyer lemon and hazlenuts could not be more simple or more delicious. This simplicity sometimes eclipses the amount of skill and effort involved behind the scenes. Barber is a master poacher and sous vide cook. His hake and Berkshire pig are wonders to behold and consume. The service is very fine, as is the wine list. In keeping with the cuisine, the sommelier will often pair local wines (or other unexpected combinations) with the tasting menu courses, which is not as bad as it sounds and, in many cases, proves eye-opening. Barber also operates the excellent Blue Hill at Stone Barns in the Pocatinco Hills about 30 miles outside of the city, which is worth a special trip.

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INFORMATION

Greenwich Village
75 Washington Pl.
New York (nr. Sixth Ave.)
212-539-1776
Mon-Sat, 5:30pm-11pm; Sun, 5:30pm-10pm
    Dan Barber, Chef
    Laureen Barber, Chef
    Trevor Kunk, Chef de Cuisine
    Michael Gallina, Chef de Cuisine
    Joel de la Cruz, Pastry Chef
    Claire Paparazzo, Wine Director
    Asfour Guzy, Designer

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    RECOMMENDED DISHES See All

    • This Morning’s Farm Egg, Spring Onions, Ramps and Leeks
    • First of the Season Asparagus and Watercress, This Morning’s Farm Egg, Meyer Lemon and Hazelnuts
    • Braised Hake, First of the Season Asparagus, Pine Nuts and Ramps
    • Stone Barns Berkshire Pig, Red Kale, Ramps, Bacon and Shitake Mushrooms
    • Chocolate Bread Pudding