REVIEW

Sushi Shikon

For what it’s worth, there are only five sushi restaurants in Tokyo that have received three Michelin stars:  Sukiyabashi Jiro, Sushi Mizutani, Sushi Saito, Araki (which is closing and moving to London) and Sushi Yoshitake.  Sushi Shikon is the first oversees outpost of Masahiro Yoshitake’s eponymous Tokyo restaurant, presided over by Executive Chef Masaaki Miyakawa.  Located in the Mercer Hotel, you could easily think you’re in Ginza rather than Sheung Wan once inside the tranquil eight-seat restaurant.  The menu is omakase only and, due to the cost of importation, bracingly expensive (more expensive than any of the above mentioned sushiya in Tokyo, or than Masa and Urasawa in the United States, which are even farther away from Tsukiji than Hong Kong is).

The restaurant has a traditional Ginza-style minimalist design, with a smooth white cedar wood counter, blond wood walls offset by dark green noren, a charcoal grill and beautiful ceramics and servingware.  Your sake is kept on ice, periodically to be poured into a serving bowl and then into tiny drinking cups by the remarkably attentive and professional staff.

The omakase consists of a series of five appetizers and 10 pieces of traditional edomae sushi. Interestingly, the Niigata rice is made with red vinegar rather than white.  The quality of the fish is breathtakingly high.  One of the biggest challenges for any great sushi restaurant is sourcing; personal relationships can be key to securing premium products.  Yoshitake’s anchor in Tokyo has clearly provided Sushi Shikon a direct line of access to the best suppliers.

Several of the items were the best of their type that I have ever had:  the octopus, tender beyond belief, that had been massaged and marinated in a Chinese sauce for several days; the chu-toro (medium fatty tuna) that had been marinated in soy for 4-6 hours; the smoky bonito with ponzu sauce, speared by long skewers and lightly hay seared; and the Japanese tiger shrimp.  What’s perhaps even more impressive is the consistent level of quality the restaurant exhibits, rare even amongst the very best sushi-ya. Every single course was precise, delicious and beautiful, from a steamed abalone paired with a green sauce made from its liver, to an anago (saltwater eel) brushed with maple syrup, a buttery rockfish, two varieties of sublime sea urchin (Hokkaido and brownish Aka uni from Kyushu) and a faultless tamago.  

While I would want to eat more comprehensively at Tokyo and Kyoto’s greatest sushi tables before rendering any definitive pronouncements, I would be shocked if Sushi Shikon were not among the 15 best in the world.  I can say with assurance that it has no rivals in Hong Kong and that only Masa and Urasawa in the United States are of comparable quality.

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INFORMATION

Sheung Wan
The Mercer Hotel, Ground Floor, 29 Jervois Street, Sheung Wan
+852 9697-6800
Mon-Sat, 6pm, 8:30pm
    Masahiro Yoshitake , Chef
    Yoshiharu Kakinuma, Executive Chef

    TAGS

    • Hong Kong
    • Sashimi/Sushi
    • Japanese
    • Best Decor
    • Best Service
    • BYOB Corkage Fee: $500HKD
    • Private Dining Room Private Dining Room: 6 seated
    • Tasting Menu 16 Course Omakase: $3500 HKD

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